Happy New Year!

This year for the first time in my life I wasn't at home for New Years. Instead I was in Catalonia, Spain on a 10 day trip with Jim Pope and 6 others. We were staying in Margalef where we planned to spend the trip. However, because Margalef is in quite a low valley it was very misty and cold for most of the time. Therefore, we ended up climbing in Siurana twice, Monstant once and the other 4 days freezing in Margalef. It was however a very good, fun trip and successful.

Me standing on top of the dam at Margalef 

The first day started off well as I managed to send an 8a+ called Absolut which had a nuts jump to a two finger pocket. I then went on to flash an 8b called Photo-shot. Photo-shot is an amazing route and if you happen to go to Margalef I would highly recommend it. The hardest route I sent was an 8c called Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies at Margalef. This is also a really cool route with a dynamic stab into a mono as the crux move. I also ended the trip well despite being ill, as on the last day I sent an 8b second go after blowing the flash on the last hard move!

Sitting in the comfortable car whist watching Jessica Pilz send 8b. 

In total I managed to send 10 routes from 8a to 8c during the 7 climbing days. However, what made the trip even better was the amount of climbing I did alongside the climbs I sent. I tried many harder routes, up to 9a+, which have got me very psyched to train harder and return for. I loved the trip and hopefully I'll be back soon.

Jim Crushing an 8a+ in Siurana

A very busy July!

Following on from my last post, I did manage to compete at the BBCs and have a good time. However I was still feeling pretty weak from the blood poisoning, so my climbing and result were not  what I had hoped for. I finished in 7th place, just missing out on the final on countback.
Straight after the comp I headed to Raven Tor for an hour before headed back home. This was the first time that I have actually climbed at Raven Tor, I have to say it's not the best looking crag in the country but the climbing was very cool.  

Having a good look at Hubble.

One week later I found myself on a flight to Paris on my first trip headed to Font. I had planned this trip as a mid season training break and a holiday with friends. Which is why I wasn't too bothered about going in the middle of summer. Font is a absolutely amazing place, with some of the best boulder problems in the world. Unfortunately, it was far too hot for any major sends but I did tick a lot of the classics. The hardest problem I sent during the trip was Mongolite 8A, photo of me on it below.

I did miss training during my trip and came back very psyched, but it was nice to be able to relax. Also just going climbing everyday to new areas and not projecting one single climb was really nice.

One of the sunsets at Font 

Visit to Slovenia, followed by some blood poisoning!

I've just returned from a fantastic trip to Slovenia, where I stayed with my girlfriend Ajda. During my stay I was able to train really well at some amazing walls, which are set up incredibly well for hard training. I was blown away by the high standards of all the Slovenian walls I visited. I also enjoyed some outdoor climbing, paddle boarding and hiking at some beautiful locations. The weather was very hot, so climbing outdoors was hard work. However, the crags I visited were amazing and the routes I climbed really enjoyable.

Training

I climbed at Osp and at Misja Pec. I concentrated on trying many routes and practising my onsighting. The routes are long and many are overhanging, as parts of the crags are caves. One of the classic routes I onsighted was Active Discharge 8a, which goes through the steepest part of Osp's huge cave on tufas and cool features. However, I was robbed of a 40m 8a+ flash of Samsara Extension, at Misja Pec, when I was forced to jump off the route at the last move, as the finishing jug had a wasp nest in it and a lot of angry wasps buzzing around! Between the birds at Malham and the wasps in Slovenia I am getting fed up of wildlife!
I am definitely psyched to return to these crags to try some of the harder routes.

The cave at Osp

I returned to Scotland last week. On Friday evening I became aware of a strange, hot and painful red streak spreading up my left arm from a very angry, red spot on my elbow. After phoning NHS 24, I ended up at our local hospital where I was prescribed antibiotics. Since then my arm has been very painful, and the Doctor recommended not doing anything too strenuous, so I have been forced to have some rest days from climbing and training. My arm is on the mend so hopefully, I will be able to compete at the British Bouldering Championship this weekend, in Sheffield.

Update - 14th June 2016

Life has been very busy. This year I have been sitting my Higher exams and I have now left school :) I have a conditional offer for Edinburgh college to study HND Civil Engineering, so fingers crossed for good exam results. I am also learning to drive and have just passed my Theory test, so there has been lots going on. I am really looking forward to being able to drive as I will be able to get to my training and to crags without relying on anyone else.

I have also been very busy with my climbing. This year I wanted to climb Rainshadow, 9a at Malham, and so I had been training very hard for this over the winter. I am psyched that I was able to achieve this goal on the 2nd May.

UKClimbing report

Climbing this route has been the biggest buzz of my climbing so far, as this route has been a dream of mine since my first visit to Malham aged 12. Also, I feel that this is a major stepping stone in my climbing and I am psyched for the future.

I have also still been competing, over the winter at the Youth Opens, CWIF, local bouldering comps and more recently at a Lead EYC in Imst, Austria and at the Junior British Bouldering Championship. These competitions have been successful for me and I am pleased with how I have performed.

At the EYC in Imst, I was very tired as I had my Computing exam the day before the competition and had, therefore, arrived at the hotel at 2am. Despite this I managed to climb well enough to make the final, in a large and strong field. The final route was tricky for me as it was set in very much a World Cup Boulder style using very few holds and lots of volumes, which is not a style I am used to. I fought my way up the route and finished the comp in 10th. I was happy with how I climbed, given the poor preparation due to exams.

This past week, to celebrate leaving school, I headed down to Malham with fellow climbers Ajda Remskar and Jim Pope. We spent a really fun few days camping and climbing. Unfortunately, conditions were not good as birds were nesting on some routes and the sun was out. However, Jim and I managed to send some classic routes, including Unjustified 8b+ and Austrian Oak 8b. I also did a little work on Total Eclipse and I am psyched to return to this route when conditions improve.

Austrian Oak 8b

After our week in Malham we headed to Manchester for the JBBCs. I was happy to climb well at this comp and finish in 1st place :)

Junior Boys Podium JBBC 2016

I am now psyched to visit Ajda in Slovenia, for a few weeks, where I plan to train really hard at their brilliant training walls. Not having to return to school is great!

Monk Life (Font 8B+ / V14) Kyloe-in-the-Wood, Northumberland

I first visited Kyloe-in-the-Wood in August 2015. As it was my first visit to the crag, I was keen to try many of the problems and especially, Monk Life. I had heard lots about Monk Life, from climbers at my local bouldering wall, Alien Rock 2, and had read all about it in the guide book. Also, as I am Scottish and the problem was first climbed by one of Scotland’s best, Malcolm Smith, in 2003, this is a problem I was really keen to try. On that first visit I had only a few attempts and didn’t even reach the crux! However, I was instantly blown away by the problem and the moves. I knew, straightaway, that I wanted to come back to complete this.   

On my second visit, on Tuesday 13th October, I was lucky to be able to work with another climber sharing both beta and boulder mats (as the problem, in my opinion, is quite high!) Using this new beta, I was able to reach the crux on my first attempt of the day and suddenly the problem seemed possible. Throughout the day I got very close but didn’t manage to stick the dyno to the break.

I returned again to Kyloe-in on Monday 19th October for another session, where I hoped to make progress but had no real expectations of climbing it. I did a couple of problems to warm up, and then decided to give Monk Life a warm up go, just to get back into the flow of it. However, before I got on my mum insisted we put the camera on, just in case. At the time this seemed a bit far fetched, but I'm very grateful we did, as on that go I managed to climb it perfectly, caught the dyno move and did it! At the time I couldn’t quite believe it, and I haven’t stopped smiling since! 

UK Climbing News

Climber Magazine

BMC Junior Cups, Lead and Boulder, Round 1

On Saturday 29th November I competed in the Junior Lead Cup, Round 1, at Awesome Walls, Sheffield. Having been ill with a virus the week before I had not had the best preparation for this competition, and was slightly lacking in strength. However, I climbed fairly well and in the final was in joint 2nd place. With the count-back from the qualifiers I finished in 3rd place.

The following weekend, on Sunday 7th December, I competed at the Junior Boulder Cup, Round 1, in Derby. As in the previous week I finished the final in joint second, but was separated by count-back and finished 3rd overall. I was a little disappointed with these results, but it has been a long season and I am now looking forward to a break over the winter where I can focus on my training.

Due to my results throughout the year I have been selected again for both the GB Junior Lead (elite) and Boulder Teams for 2015.

At the Boulder Cup Rob Adie, from the BMC, presented me with the Trophy for winning the Senior BLCC. It had been engraved with my name alongside some very famous previous winners, e.g. Ian Vickers, Steve McClure, Gaz Parry, Ed Hamer and Dave Barrans.

Being presented with the BLCC trophy

World Lead Cup, Kranj, Nov 2014

I competed in my first senior international during the weekend of 14/16th November 2014. It was an amazing experience and very exciting. Having made some mistakes in the qualifiers, I finished in 42nd place, and was a little disappointed in my performance. However, the next week I was ill with a virus and off school, so I don't think I was competing at my best. It was still a fantastic learning opportunity and it was awesome to see the best climbers in the world, like Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert, competing.

With Adam Ondra

     

Siurana Oct 2014

I spent a really enjoyable week climbing in Siurana, Spain with my good friend Angus Davidson. On the first day we both climbed La Cara que no miente 8a+ which I was really psyched to get as it was a route I had tried on my last trip to Siurana three years ago :) On the second day I got Kale Borroka 8b+ which was also a really good route and my second of the grade.

The rest of the trip I spent working an 8c+ called Directa Cornualles which I got very close to but didn't manage to get. It was all down to a razor blade crimp, which by the time I had the beta, I didn't have the skin left to do it :( . I am really psyched to go back to finish the route hopefully some time in the near future.

Working Directa Cornualles

Angus and I look out across the valley

Bouldering at the Refugio!

EYBC Austria, WYCC Noumea, New Caledonia, BLCC & BSCC Sheffield

Oh dear - I've not kept up to date with my blog again. Sometimes it's very hard to juggle training, comps, school and homework - and climbing always wins over writing!  Much has happened since I last blogged - so this is just going to be a short report on each event to bring you up to date.

European Youth Boulder Cup, Laengenfeld, Oetzal, 15-16 August

I competed with the GB Junior Bouldering Team at this event in Austria. I was happy with how I climbed in the qualifiers, quickly and efficiently making 7 tops, and I went through to the finals in 4th place. The final was tough, but I managed 2 tops and the bonus on the other problem. On my final problem I dug deep, on my 7th attempt as the clock was ticking, to make a tricky move and hang on for the top out. This climb gave me a second place podium finish, which I was very pleased with.

On the move that clinched my Silver medal

Here is a link to the BMC GB Junior Bouldering Report
gb-junior-bouldering-team-storm-to-dramatic-2014-season-climax

World Youth Climbing Championhip, Noumea, New Caledonia, 19-23 September

I travelled with the GB Junior Lead team to New Caledonia, in the Pacific Ocean, to compete at the World Youth Climbing Championship. As it is my first year in the Youth A category I knew that this was going to be a tough competition, but I had been training hard and hoped that if I climbed well I could make finals.

The GB Junior Lead Team for the WYCC

On one of our first days on the island, whilst out for a run, we spotted a snake. Being with the other boys on the team, we immediately prodded it (gently) with a stick to encourage it out of its hole. Later we discovered that it is a very venomous snake, more so than a Cobra! I didn't tell my Mum about that, until I was safely home!

The Knit Striped snake

During the Worlds I felt that I climbed well. I should have topped the first qualifier, but I went too dynamically for the second last hold which cost me the route. I placed 11th equal after this route. The second qualifier went really well and I was pleased to top out. I was in 4th equal place after both qualifying routes. 

After all the qualifiers were finished, all 7 of the GB Team had made it through to the semi-finals which was fantastic :) A great result for the GB Junior Lead Team!

Climbing hard at the WYCC

In the Semi-final my climb went quite well, although I made a couple of mistakes in the roof which wasted energy, so I dropped the climb at the last clip. However, it turned out I was first equal on this route and with the count-back from the qualifiers I was in 1st place. I was very happy to have made the finals and to have qualified 1st! I was also the only GB climber to have made the finals.
However, things didn't go so well in the Finals and I finished the competition in 8th place. In the Final, I was out last from isolation, and made a route reading mistake at some volumes. I don't think the pressure got to me, but its always hard when there is an expectation to do well. Although I was gutted with my climb in the finals, I will learn from my mistakes and be stronger for the next time. Things don't always go to plan but successful athletes move on and keep training hard!

It was a long journey to and from New Caledonia but it was a fantastic experience.

British Lead and Speed Championship, Sheffield, 4-5 October

On Saturday 4th October I competed at the junior event of the BLCC at Awesome Walls, Sheffield. I climbed well and topped both my qualifiers. I went into the final in joint first place with fellow GB Team member Jim Pope. I was last out from isolation to climb and found the final route not too difficult until the last section. I made a mistake going for the last hold and moved too statically and fell at this point. Jim Pope had topped the route and so I finished in 2nd place overall. I was disappointed, but really pleased for my friend Jim, who had climbed really well. Well done Jim!

On Youth A Final route 

As a forfeit for losing I had to wear the shirt I had bought in Noumea (whilst our cases were missing) and shades at dinner that night. 

Cool Dude!

On the Sunday I was competing in the Senior comp. This is the first year that I was old enough to compete in this event and I was really psyched for it. I was pleased to top both qualifiers, especially the second one as my foot popped near the top and I had to quickly grab hold and hang on to a sloper. I was the only competitor to top both routes so qualified for the final in first place.

Topping out on Qualifier 2

In the final I climbed well and made use of the rests. I knew that I would have to get very near the top to win. At the top I was getting pumped but fought on through a tough cross-through move and then fell from the second last hold. When I reached the ground I was told that I had won and I was thrilled. Lots of people came to congratulate me and I was very very happy!

On the Senior Male Final route 

The Senior Male Podium 

(Thanks to Zoe at Awesome Walls for the great photos)

After the finals it was time for the British Junior Speed Championship, which I had entered for fun. I enjoyed taking part in this and was pleased to finish in 2nd place. My brother, Alexander Bosi, was also competing in the Senior Speed event and finished in 2nd place - Well done Alexander!

Here is a link to the BMC report of the event.
british-lead-speed-climbing-championships-ifsc-paraclimbing-cup-2014

I was also delighted that my good friend Molly Thompson-Smith had retained her Senior female Lead Championship title, here we are together with our medals.

Senior Champions! Photo - Tony Smith

Due to winning the Senior Male British Lead Championship I have been invited to attend a Senior World Cup event at Kranj, Slovenia in November, which is very exciting. The hard work starts now!

Next up is a climbing trip with my great friend Angus Davidson to Siurana, Spain. We are both so psyched about returning to Siurana, and the guidebook is being studied!

EYBC L'Argentiere, France / Round 3 British Junior Boulder Championship, London

On my return from Spain, on 18th July, I had a day to re-pack and organise before I headed out with the GB Junior Boulder Team to L'Argentiere in France for an European Youth Cup. I enjoyed this trip, although I was a little disappointed with my result. I climbed well in the qualifiers and topped four problems, but then I failed on each of the next four on the very last move! This was very frustrating, and as I only topped four I did not manage to make finals. I am determined to do better at the next EYC, during August, in Austria. Here is a link to the BMC report of the event:

BMC L'Argentiere Report

On our return to London I was picked up by my family at Stansted airport, as I was competing at Round 3 of the British Junior Bouldering Championship, at the Arch Climbing wall, London, on 27th July. I was delighted to climb well at this competition, being the only climber (including the older category, Junior Boys) to top all 8 qualifiers. I also climbed strongly in the Finals, topping 2 out of 3 problems, and was delighted to win both this round and the overall Championship.

Youth A Boys - Championship Podium

After the competition finished we drove to Oxford to stay with my younger brother's Godparents. His Godfather, Anthony Reid, is a motor racing driver and I got the chance to sit in an Aston Martin Vantage

You can read about Anthony here http://www.anthonyreid.com/

Spain - July 2014

At the beginning of July I headed to La Manga, Spain for a family holiday. Although this was not to be a climbing holiday I knew I had to keep training, as I had an European Youth Boulder Cup competition on my return. I was lucky to be able to train at a local boulder wall, in La Union, owned by Club de Montana, Roller Masters, which I really appreciated. It was a great training wall, although very hot in the summer weather!

Club de Montana, Roller Masters

The Boulder wall, La Union, Spain

Working hard!

I also managed to climb at an indoor Lead wall in Murcia and do some outdoor climbing at a crag at Mula. As it was so hot during the day we climbed in the evening and looked for routes that were in the shade. Although I only had a short time climbing at Mula I managed to tick Sogun 8a, Sucina 8a+, and a bouldery climb through the roof of a cave, Lula 8a.

Here I am climbing at Mula -

Climbing Sogun, 8a

Sucina, 8a+

Mula is a winter crag, but I'm pleased that I braved the heat as the climbing was fun. I would like to return sometime to this area, during the winter, and climb at another local crag, Leyva.

EYCC 2014, EICA / Demoing at YCS Final, EICA / Fun at Dumbarton, June 2014

I have had a very busy summer of climbing, competitions, and fun. During the weekend of 14th/15th June I competed at the European Youth Climbing Championship, for Youth A boys, where I was delighted to make finals and finish in 8th place. I include the link to a BMC film of this event.

ifsc-european-youth-championships-2014

On the 28th June I was busy climbing again, this time demoing the routes for Youth A boys, at the British Youth Climbing Series Final, at EICA Ratho. The GB Junior Climbing Team were asked to volunteer at this event and demonstrate the routes. It was great fun and a privilege to demo for this category and the BMC organisers.

The following week was the start of my school holidays and I had lots of climbing friends from the GB team to stay, Molly Thomson-Smith, Jim Pope, Pete Dawson and Angus Davidson. We had great fun climbing during the day and watching scary movies at night. We climbed at Dumbarton Rock and I was delighted to climb my first 8A boulders (Pongo SS and Sabotage.)

Dumbarton Rock - 8th June 2014

On Sunday 8th June I drove through, with my Dad, to climb at Dumbarton. It was the first time I have climbed there and I really enjoyed it. When we arrived there was very heavy rain (typical west coast weather - it was sunny in Edinburgh) and we got very wet. However, where I was going to be climbing was sheltered and so the route I was keen to try, Sufferance, was dry. I got on to the route and worked the sequences, which I found quite tough as there were no chalk marks and the holds were not great.

Eating some lunch - as it was so wet underfoot it was easier to stay clipped in!

I worked it for a while and eventually found sequences that worked well for me - I was pleased to climb the route on my 2nd attempt and really enjoyed it.

Nearing the top of the route

At the top

Sufferance, 8a, is a very good route. I will definitely go back to Dumbarton soon.

  

EYC Imst - May 31st/ June 1st

I competed with the GB Junior Climbing team at the EYC in Imst, Austria. Unfortunately, I made a mistake on my second qualifier jumping for a hold and not quite catching it correctly - this meant that I didn't make the final and finished in 19th (out of 54.) I was disappointed because I knew that I could have climbed better. The Youth A category is really tough with many strong climbers, eg. Hannes Puman, SWE, Stefano Carnati, ITA, Georg Parma, AUT, etc. My next competition is the European Championship at Ratho, where I hope to do much better. 

On my first qualifier
photo - Tanya Rose

   

Round 2 British Junior Bouldering Championship

On Saturday 26th April I competed, at TCA Glasgow, in Round 2 of the British Bouldering Championship. The competition went well for me and I was delighted to win. As a result I have been selected to compete at two European Boulder Youth Cups this summer.

On the tricky Final problem 3. 

Winter Training and the SYBC 2014

Since my last blog I've been training really hard with Tom Randall and I'm feeling stronger than ever. I have had to travel down to Sheffield a lot for coaching and GB Team training events.

Working with Tom at his Lattice Board

Over the winter months I took part in my local wall's (Alien Rock) winter bouldering series, which I was pleased to win for the second year running. It's always great fun to take part in this competition.

Being presented with the Alien Rock trophy

My family also had a holiday in Ireland, during February half-term, where I competed at the Irish Youth Bouldering Championship. This was held at Gravity wall, Dublin, and I finished 2nd to Dominic Burns. We also travelled to Belfast and visited Eddie Cooper's new wall "Boulder World." It was great to meet up with all the Irish climbers and train at this fantastic new wall.

On Saturday 5th April, at TCA Glasgow, I took part in the Scottish Youth Bouldering Championship, in Youth A. It was a tough competition with some tricky problems, and I was competing against Dominic Burns again. After the qualifiers I was in first place but I knew the final would be intense. In the final I was pleased to top 2 out of the 3 problems, which meant I won by a top. The problems were all really hard and different styles. I was delighted to keep the Scottish Champion title for another year.

Youth A boys podium at the SYBC

I am now looking forward to a trip down to Malham, Yorkshire and a training trip, with the GB team, to Innsbruck and Imst walls in Austria.

SYCC 2013 and Commonwealth Games Dinner - Saturday 9th November 2013

I have been very busy in the last couple of weeks - so I am cheating with my blog (a little) by linking to some other reports.

On Saturday 9th November I competed at the Scottish Youth Climbing Championhip at EICA, Ratho. It was freezing cold,  probably colder than normal as they are working on replacing the roof. I climbed well, topping all my routes, even the techy slabs that route-setter Neil McGeachy loves to set and climb! After climbing my final route I quickly went to the changing rooms to shower and change into my DJ before heading to Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games Dinner. This meant that I wasn't able take part in the Speed comp, but well done to my brother, Alexander, for winning the Boys 16-19 years.

I had been invited to the dinner in Glasgow to receive one of 5 Scottish Sports Aid Trust merit awards. So I was really surprised when, at the dinner, it was announced that I had won the Miquel trophy for Most Improved Young Sportsperson 2013. I was really excited to win this award and it was great to meet Sir Chris Hoy!

With Sir Chris Hoy

How awesome for Sport Climbing to be recognised alongside more mainstream sports!

Ready for the Dinner - but still climbing!

Scottish Sports Aid Trust

MCofS Report

Wildcountry news

In summary I am thrilled to have retained my Scottish Champion title and to have won the Scottish Sports Aid Trust Miquel trophy. 

Bouldering EYC Laval, France, 12th/13th October 2013

I was psyched to be attending my first Bouldering EYC. I flew to Manchester on Thursday morning with fellow team member, Rachel Carr, to meet up with the rest of the team. From there we flew on to Paris and then drove to Laval.

On the Friday there was an Opening Ceremony and registration. The comp started on the Saturday with the youth A and junior female qualification and then youth A and junior male qualification. The youth B qualification was on the Sunday so youth B climbers were able to support everyone else on the Saturday, which was great fun. The whole team climbed well with Nathan Phillips qualifying for the final in 5th place.

It was amazing to watch Nathan crush the final and finish in 1st place!

On the Sunday it was an early start as my qualifiers were being held at a different wall in another town 30 minutes away. The youth B girls were first so this gave me and the rest of the GB Youth B boys time to warm up. When Qualification started I first got on problem 2, a very crimpy and powerful boulder, but messed it up twice, so moved onto problem 1, a really awkward problem where you needed to get your feet sorted, which I flashed. I then tried problem 5, a big slopery problem, which I flashed. I flashed three more of the problems and then got stuck on the last 3. I finally managed problem 7, which was a really awkward one hand dyno press, on my fourth go. Problem 2 and 3 eluded me. I was a bit surprised when Pete Dawson told me that we were both in the final. I had qualified in 6th place and Pete in 5th.

The Finals were held later that day. In the Final there were three problems. We came out for presentation and then observation. It was a great feeling being introduced to a very large crowd of hundreds of people. Looking at the problems with the other finalists I thought they looked desperate and didn't think I would top any.

In the Final - Photo by Brieuc Deleage

The first problem, was not my style at all being big pinch slopers and powerful, but I managed to get to the 2nd last hold - getting the bonus on my 5th attempt. Only one climber, Stefano Carnati from Italy, managed to top this. The 2nd problem had an awkward and tricky sequence but somehow I managed to pull through and flash this. This put me in 2nd place, although I did not know that. The final problem was a really awkward dyno, which I could not catch and ripped my finger open. However, although other climbers managed to catch the dyno and get the bonus hold they failed to top. Stefano and a French climber, Matteo Rousseau, managed to top out this problem, which put me in 3rd place.

I was sitting in isolation when Tom Greenall, GB manager, came in to congratulate me. I hadn't realised until that point that I was in 3rd place. Tom was rewarded with a very big smile!

Youth B Boys podium 

I really enjoyed my first Bouldering EYC - well done to all the team and especially Nathan.

BMC report here -
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/first-ever-european-gold-for-junior-bouldering-team

BLCC and BSCC, Sheffield, 5th/6th Oct 2013

I competed at the British Lead Climbing Championship on the Saturday and the British Speed on the Sunday, at the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield.

My first qualifier on the Saturday did not go to plan, as my hand ripped off about three quarters of the way up the route. This meant that I had to top my next route to guarantee I made the final. Both Jim Pope and Peter Dawson topped both the first route and then the second, so the pressure was really on. However, by managing to top the second qualifier I went through to the final in 4th place.

Our final route was around 8b/8b+ which went through the longest and hardest section of the wall. Three boys categories were on this route (so Youth B, A and Juniors.) Youth B climbed first, as we were the youngest. I had a good climb and managed to get into the roof, where I realised that I had misread the sequence. I managed to quickly correct myself, but this left me very pumped, so I was able to make a couple more moves before falling off. I wasn't sure if this would be enough to make the podium as there was still 3 more GB team members to climb - Angus Davidson, Jim Pope and Peter Dawson. However, it turned out that across all categories everyone had misread the roof sequence and I was the only one to get past that point, meaning I had won Youth B and got further than the older boys too!

Youth B Podium - looking smart!

On Sunday I entered the British Junior Speed Climbing Championship for fun. This was a good day with a great atmosphere and I climbed well getting into the final and posting a personal best of 10.90s in the semi-final. In the final round I was up against my brother, Alexander. We both found the pressure got to us and had slips and mistakes all the way up the route! In the end Alexander hung on to win and I had to settle for 2nd. We did speak to each other on the way home - honest!    

Junior Speed Podium 

EYC Stavanger - 7th/ 8th September

On Wednesday 4th September my Dad drove me to Aberdeen where I stayed overnight at Rebecca Kinghorn's house. Rebecca is also on the GB Climbing Team and the following morning, with her Mum chaperoning, we flew from Aberdeen airport to Stavanger, Norway. The rest of the team would join us later as they were flying out from London.

On Friday we drove to the wall to check out its location, shopped for some food and had fun! Later Ian (Team Manager) attended registration and the Technical meeting.

Climbing started at 9.30am on the Saturday morning. I was climbing 13th just after Peter Dawson (GB Team.) I sat on the chair watching him climb and cheering him on as he made it all the way to the top but, unfortunately, dropped the last move. Then it was my turn to climb. The route was crimpy with some big moves so suited my style quite well. I felt really relaxed until about 3/4 way up when I became flash pumped. However, I managed to pull through a couple more moves to reach a rest point then I battled it out to the top - which I was very happy with.

Our second qualifier was not until the afternoon. Three GB Climbers, Peter, me and Jim Pope were up 1st, 2nd and 3rd respectively so we made sure we were warmed up well before climbing started and with two Italian climbers route read together. Pete climbed very well and managed to top the route, which guaranteed him a place in the final. I was next to climb, the route had a hard start and then lots of traverses and stand-ups into undercuts in a groove. This allowed you to take good rests before the hard slopery top section, and I again managed to top. This also guaranteed my place in the final. Next up was Jim "pope on a rope" and he had an awesome climb, jumping between slopers at the top - it was insane! Jim also topped, which secured him a place in the final too!

As the second routes were completed it became clear that the GB Team had all performed well and all 12 team members had qualified for the finals - a record! This was a fantastic result for the team, and I was delighted to have qualified for the final in joint 1st.

GB Team

The Youth B Finals started very early on the Sunday morning at 8.30am, so we arrived early, as soon as isolation opened, at 7am to warm up. When we came out to observe the route we were expecting a standard overhanging, horrible route but were surprised and excited to find that the route included a double hand dyno, so everyone had a smile on their face when they returned to isolation. Everyone was super-psyched for the route. Whilst I was in isolation I could hear and work out from the cheers of the crowd how the other climbers were doing. I could guess at when the dyno was caught and I suspected that both Stefano Carnati, from Italy, and Sascha Lehmann, from Switzerland, had topped. I also thought Hugo, from France, and Nicolas, from Belgium, would have topped. Therefore, I knew that I had to top out if I wanted to be on the podium. I was last out to climb and I stayed relaxed through the first section of the route up to the dyno. At the dyno I was about to go for it when I paused for a second and realised "hang on I could static this" and was able to go to the hold with my right hand. This turned out to be a good hold so I was able to get a good rest here. After that I continued into the upper section which was much harder than the rest of the route. Even though I was pumped I managed to get to the last hold but almost fell off putting in the clip. I had to re-adjust my position in order to clip - so I was relieved to top out. When the rope was taken tight I was overwhelmed with happiness!

Once the results were confirmed,  I was in 2nd place to Sascha on Time. However, I was not too disappointed as I had topped all my routes and I was happy for Sascha too.

I was also 2nd in the overall EYC rankings for 2013 and received a cool medal.

The overall EYC Podium - me, Stefano Carnati, Sacha Lehmann

For Girls Youth A, Molly Thompson-Smith was 3rd in the overall rankings - here we are on the podium together.

With Molly

Full results can be seen here  http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=1482&cat=16